Shiva's Wedding Night in Shiva's City
Mahashivratri — the 14th night of the dark half of Phalguna (February/March) — is the great night of Shiva: tradition holds it the night of his marriage to Parvati and of his cosmic dance. Every Shiva temple celebrates; Kashi, the lord's own city, celebrates as no other place can. Vishwanath's queues run through the night; the lanes echo with "Har Har Mahadev"; sadhus from every order converge on the eternal city.
How Kashi Keeps the Night
- Darshan all night: the temple's doors stay open through the four praharas; abhishek continues unbroken.
- Shiv Baraat traditions: wedding processions of the lord wind through the lanes — groom Shiva with his ghostly, comical retinue, Kashi playing the bride's city.
- Fasting and vigil: devotees keep the night awake in japa and hymn; the city's tea stalls do their busiest business.
- The ghats: night boats and the river's dark mirror under temple lights.
Visiting at Shivratri
This is Kashi's peak pilgrimage moment together with Sawan. Book accommodation months ahead; expect very long darshan queues (arrange entry only through the official system); keep the night for the city, not the clock. Police arrangements are extensive — follow official guidance and marked routes.
Meaning for Pilgrims
Shivratri is kept with fasting, night vigil, abhishek and bilva offering. Tradition promises much to those who keep even one Shivratri with sincerity; to keep it in Kashi is, devotees say, the vow kept at the source itself.